After a little thinking, a lot of reading, and fair amount of courage, I took the plunge, placed a Jameco order, and started learning to do electronic design. So far I’ve had a blast — the first time I took a stab at solving a problem and it worked, I knew this was the right thing to do.
One of the challenges of getting this far, though, was figuring out how to assemble the gear I needed on a reasonably cost-effective basis. I spent a good amount of time developing a wishlist, then paring it down and making compromises until I was left with the minimum set of hardware and components I actually need. As it turns out, I chose fairly well… I haven’t hit any roadblocks yet, and I’m halfway through my first project.
It turns out that purchasing an oscilloscope was a wise investment. The ability to view two signals at once with no lag has been a lifesaver… it’s awfully difficult to tell whether your circuit it doing what you expect if you can’t poke around and see it on the screen. That’s lesson number one — a good oscilloscope is a lifesaver. Note that it doesn’t have to be an expensive purchase… a little hunting on eBay or craigslist will net you a number of possibilities in the $150 range. Oscilloscope probes, on the other hand, can be pricey if purchased new… I ordered a pair of 10x probes from Probemaster, but they could probably be found on the used market as well.
The second lesson I learned is that breadboards really are the way to go for prototyping low-speed circuits. Yes, they’re noisy — I’ll probably have to use wirewrap for microcontrollers — but with a few well-placed bypass capacitors, you can build reliable logic circuits without much hassle. While breadboards are inexpensive ($30), power supplies for them are decidedly not — expect to spend $100 on a single-output voltage supply. The investment is worth it (how else are you going to power your circuits?), but it’s one of the few expensive pieces of kit you need to get started.
Once you’ve got your test equipment and prototyping surface, all that’s left to pick up is individual components. Grab bags are the way to go for things like capacitors and transistors, though you’ll want to choose a component kit when you purchase resistors so that you get a wide assortment of values. Pick up a dozen .01μF and .1μF ceramic disc capacitors as well — you’ll use them all over your circuit, and it’s a lot easier to have a ready pile of them instead of hunting through a grab bag for the right one (speaking from experience here). Expect to spend time learning the resistor and capacitor codes — that’s the only way you’ll be able to tell the values apart! I thought I was hosed when it came to figuring out the transistors (only some are labeled), but my $10 Cen-Tech multimeter has a transistor checker that saved me. (Despite not being a $200 Fluke meter, it works pretty well. A recommended purchase!)
Depending on your project, you’ll also want to purchase a variety of integrated circuits, solid state relays, etc — Google for projects similar to yours, and you’re bound to find suggestions and schematics that will direct you as to what to purchase.
The last thing I had to deal with was what to do with all this stuff. Early experiments ended up taking over the dining room table, and it was clear that that wouldn’t be a sustainable practice when most of my work is done around dinnertime. First things first: the oscilloscope fit nicely on the floor, propped up by its well-designed handle. The power supply seemed destined to float around the table, but since the model I chose was particularly compact, I was able to secure it to the oscilloscope with a bit of velcro and kill two birds with one stone.
Consolidating hardware on the floor took care of some of the problem, but I was still left with baggies of components and spare jumper wire spread liberally around my work area. I was about to take out the trash when it occurred to me that the box from one of my orders was just the right size for holding all my parts. I cut the flaps off for use as dividers, and in the spirit of Make, stapled and taped my way to the perfect organizer. A little tray at the top holds jumper wires and loose components, while individual component bags get sorted between a large and small section in the main compartment. The sides of the box were just the right size for a printout of the resistor and capacitor codes — bonus!
Throw in a pad of graph paper and a calculator, and you’ve got an area dedicated to electronic design packed into only a few square feet. That’s the kind of organization that’s sure to please mind and spouse alike!




27 Comments
On the ‘power supply’, $100 seems on the steep end. Find a defunct PC and kick the power supply out of that one. They tend to be (well enough) regulated and come with multiple settings: +5, -5 +12, -12 or so. It varies wildly on age of the PC you broke open.
Or you can buy just a ‘replacement PC power supply’. From Jameco, or Mouser, or wherever. Around $40 or so should do it.
I agree, the ‘benchtop power supplies’ are overpriced. Oh, and an even cheaper option is the LM317 adjustable voltage regulator in conjunction with a 24V, 1A wall wart. The transformer should run around $12.
Completely agree with Al, I was about to post the same thing :)
I keep all my parts in a large tackle box. $10, it has three trays and lots of little bins, plus room at the bottom for my multimeter and soldering iron. Once we move into the new house, though, I’ll probably go get one of those little three-foot-high sets of drawers with bunches of little compartments from the hardware store.
To save some money, a great first project would be to build your own power supply. Kits USA ( http://www.kitsusa.net/ )sells the Elenco Model XP-620K for $45. This is a soldering kit to build your own “real” boxed benchtop triple power supply with plus-and-minus 1.5 to 15V @ 1 Amp as well as +5V @ 3 Amp. That’s a good deal, and it’s much more versatile than a lot of cheaper power supplies.
-Windell.
“Or you can buy just a ‘replacement PC power supply’. From Jameco, or Mouser, or wherever. Around $40 or so should do it.”
I found a surplus one for $20, and bought a few variable voltage regulators. Makes a useful first project. Just short the green to black to turn it on. It provides up to 24V unmodified, but there have been some projects where people modify the PSU to give high voltages at very high current.
I should have posted this before purchasing :-)
Thanks for the advice — it’s much-appreciated!
That’s all good advice. I especially agree that the oscilloscope is REALLY useful. It’s cheaper to buy one than to try to get along without it!
Everybody needs two books: Horowitz and Hill’s The Art of Electronics and Hayes and Horowitz’s lab manual for the same book. Without the lab manual, you’re missing a lot.
By the way, I’ve never had any trouble using breadboards for microcontrollers. Their main problem is not noise but capacitance to ground; everything has something like 15 pF of coupling to the metal ground plane beneath the board. For digital circuits at moderate speeds (4 MHz) that is actually a good thing. What I couldn’t get working on a breadboard was a microphone-level high-gain audio amplifier; there was too much capacitive feedback.
Use a breadboard that has parallel + and – buses along both sides of the circuit area, and put a 0.1-uF capacitor across them in several different places along the breadboard. That should get rid of unwanted coupling through the power buses.
I’ve got Art of Electronics — borrowed from the library, for now — sitting right here. It’s absolutely a must-have! Careful study of the first few chapters has been one of the most rewarding experiences I’ve had in recent memory. I’ll be sure to hunt down the lab manual…
Good info re: breadboard experiences with microcontrollers. Thanks for the advice!
Hi Matthew:
Had a goog read on your Spread.
I too would like to Design Electronics Circuits (Audio), but dont know where to start.
What other books, did you read.
Thanks
Clayton
Art of Electronics is a good place to start — work your way through the first four chapters, and you’re set to do just about anything. I’ve also perused the O’Reilly book Designing Embedded Hardware, but it won’t be of much help with audio electronics.
I’ve started with a multimeter I’ve already had and an old PC to use for programming microcontrollers. Bought some initial components (besides microcontrollers, a set of assorted resistors, a bunch of ceramic and electrolitic capacitors, a few transistors and diodes and some LEDs, maybe some uln2003 chips for bigger-power projects) and that’s it – it was more than enough for a month or two. Favorite books for that period were anything written by Forrest M. Mims, III (he wrote some brochures for Radio Shack and a few books). Pretty thorough and yet _very_ easy to read when you’re in a hurry to make something but don’t have the knowledge. Also reading datasheets from, say, alldatasheets.com or any other huge archive (there are many – check google) helps a lot.
Big breadboard with a 12V unregulated wall wart and a single LM7805 (with capacitors around it, of course) plugged into board’s corner gives me no problems with various microcontrollers running at the same time at 20MHz (with 0.1uF capacitors near power pins as written above) and I don’t really plan to upgrade to the bench supply soon.
I did my “real-world” devices on prototyping boards (with tinned single holes) using wires on the back side. Bought a _very_ cheap soldering iron in local store ($6 or something like that) with real temperature control (not just power regulator, but real temperature sensor) and it was just fantastic. Way better than a semi-professional $50 iron I had before (without sensor). Probably a soldering station would be overkill at this stage, but later it may prove worthwhile (especially with SMDs it’s useful to be able to do hot-air soldering).
My next step was to experiment and do a few small projects with different controllers (including building from scratch a simple programmer for each one). Another cheap multimeter (able to measure L and C) was very useful at that point as I’ve discovered a lot of free components around the house (from old electronics, etc) and needed to measure their parameters. I never bothered to check resistor codes – it’s always easier to measure than to decode…
For me a big box with small drawers was really useful – when you have a lot of small packets with similar parts you really want to keep them in labelled drawers. Besides, it keeps all parts on a small footprint even while I’m working – so it actually helps with spouse-pleasing thing :-)
I would highly recommend buying the real oscilloscope early if you can find something in your price range – it’s way more important than a power source or a box for parts, and while you can build something from a microcontroller and your PC or an LCD, but it’s just not the same thing. Saves a lot of headache in debugging.
Right now I’m making the switch to SMD components and homemade PCBs – laser printer and iron method – and it’s a pity that I’ve bought a lot of through-hole stuff early as it’s way messier and bigger. My recommendation would be to make the switch to SMD and do your own boards as early as you feel ready for this.
Good point re: not stocking up on DIP components.
Excellent comment — deserves a post of its own, really!
Through-hole parts are still useful, of course, for mounting on the breadboard in test circuits, but definitely not as convenient when you start making devices that you actually use.
Note, by the way, that it’s not just DIP components – simple resistors and capacitors are also more convenient in SMD form.
100$ for a power supply? Sounds like a ripp-off to me. I am from Europ, so maybe prices are different here. I recently ordered this one (http://www3.westfalia.de/shops/technica/netzgeraete/netzteile/tisch___stand___netzteile/36108-labornetzger_t_afx1502c_ps1502a_230v_50hz_0_15v_maximal_2_a.htm) for 40 Euro. We warned, however, if you order from that company, they will plaster you with nonsens snail-mail advertising to no end. I just mentioned them to give a price example, I am not related to them others than being a customer (annoyed by their advertising).
But as others have said, using an old computer power supply, or one of this cheap brick power supplies does work too.
Digital multimeters have also become dirt cheap im my area of the world. 5 Euro (no, I didn’t forget a few digits) for something useful. It’s not high-precision, but does the job.
I found “Practical Electronics for Inventors” to be a great book, too.
Amazon.com: Practical Electronics for Inventors (0639785305354): Paul Scherz: Books
Regarding breadboarding and power supply: I can also suggest a trip to eBay to locate an old Heathkit ET-3100 (or search: Heathkit 3100). There is another model ET-3600 that is similar.
This is a great little breadboarding platform. It has built-in:
1. variable DC power, both + and – from 1.2 to 15 volts
2. two fixed 15 volt AC sources (can combine for 30vac)
3. built-in square and sine wave generator
4. a full solderless breadboard
5. couple of built-in pots have breadboard hookups
What’s nice is it’s all self-contained. If you need to, you can store it away intact, without dismantling your project.
These usually have been selling from $10 to $30 or so.
Mike Yancey
Dallas, Texas
Check out http://www.arduino.cc
Great little development board that is small, cheap, and has its own development IDE that is extremely simple, versatile, and built to work well with processing.org, which is another open source iniative (but for programming java apps)
I just heard about Arduino the other day — I’ll have to check it out. Support for Processing is particularly attractive…
Thanks for the lead re: the 3100, Mike!
Some of those grab bags from Jameco are pretty useless (transistors, diodes, ceramic capacitors), unless you want to spend a lot of time hunting for the right value. The LEDs / LED segment displays, electrolytic capacitors, switches, pots, etc are ok, but I agree you should get a component kit for resistors.
I’ve had good luck so far with grab bags — particularly with the transistors and electrolytic capacitors. (Pick a transistor that isn’t labeled and use the multimeter to determine whether it’s NPN or PNP… only takes a few before you find the one you want.)
Sorting through the misc. ceramic capacitors and trying to decode their values is, in fact, a pain.
I was disappointed to find out that the grab bag of 1/4 watt pots are full of trimmer pots, not your typical potentiometer. My mistake for not looking carefully enough, I suppose.
Hi,
you could also gang up a LM317 with a cheap wall wart style regulated DC power supply. This is my power supply…it has 600mA at 20V and just costed me about 10 bucks because I got the wall wart for cheap!
Best regards
Tam Hanna
P.s. I did manage some PIC 16F84 experiments on my breadboard…
Yep, if I’d known about the LM317 I’d probably have gone that route!
You’ll have no trouble using breadboards with microcontrollers; I use them all the time with projects up to 40 MHz.
RE power supplies and voltage regulators: 78×05 + random wall-wart (DC, ~7V and above) is cheap and I find it closer to the “final” real-world configuration anyway. In a pinch, my projects will run from most any wall transformer of sufficient voltage/current (as long as the plug fits!).
Don’t overlook the BEST component source for budget-conscious inventors: chip manufacturers’ samples programs. Most every chip maker offers free samples of a WIDE variety of parts. Do take advantage; DON’T abuse the service!
Thanks for the advice, Peter! Maxim / Dallas and TI are great about samples… they’ve been a real help more than once. Atmel, as well.
Great article! If no one else pointed it out, you can go cheap on a power supply in one of two ways.
I got a multi-voltage switching power supply board at a surplus electronics site (All Electronics) for under $20. With an enclosure and the necessary hardware I’m easily under $50. I’ve yet to put it all together but… “it should work” as I always say :)
As others pointed out, the really cheap way is to stock up on LM78xx or 317 regulators and 9V or AA rechargeable batteries. :)
One Trackback
[...] My first project after assembling an electronic design lab was to build a flash trigger that I could use for high-speed photography. I thought it would be useful to share not only the finished product but also the reasoning that went into its design — in the hopes that others will learn from and improve upon it. [...]